The furniture looked nice but when you sit down the cushions are cheap, the thin cushions are placed on a board that you can feel the grain of thru the cushion. The kitchen seemed decent altho we really didn't plan to use it. The walls of the living room looked like marble. The floor had similar material. The balconies were fabulous. From our top floor we could see all over the city and really got our bearings. We could see the port off in the distance. Across the street was a mosque and at 5am we awoke to realize that we weren't in Kansas anymore. The imam was announcing the call to worship. In fact there were 3 or 4 imams each calling loud on speakers at the top of the minarets in the neighborhood.
The culture felt alien immediately. As we landed we got out of the plane onto the tarmac. We walked to the terminal from the plane. We did our first of many customs/immigration processes. The plane flight was 6 or 7 hours direct, so that was convenient. We met Rachid who drove us to our place... big confusion. The apartment was on one hand luxurious, but on the other very alien and simple. In an American home there would be a TV. This was an AirBnB so there was no great explanation from a concierge of where to buy groceries or how to hail a cab or find restaurants. I don't believe the owner of the apartment even spoke English. The guy who met us with the key certainly didn't.
Marrakech was a nice blend of old and new. The Gema al Fna was a huge tourist square at the edge of the medina(the Arab quarter). There was a snake charmer, long rows of hot food booths, people hawking their wares. Most of this area seemed oriented towards the tourist, but it was interesting. On our way out the first time a fight broke out between two motorists who had gotten in an accident. The market had a wall around it. At one edge of the Gema al Fna there were a bunch of tourist restaurants. We found one with an appealing menu on the wall written in English that seemed reasonable. The doorway led up some stairs and we found ourselves looking over the market from about 3 floors up. One floor down was a Moroccan band. There were torches and heaters. It was December so there was a chill in the air.
Our accommodation was probably a half mile from the market. We were on the third floor. There were plenty of places to eat nearby. The part of Marrakech we were in was heavily western so we didn't feel alien in this land anymore. Casablanca was industrial. Fes was very Arab and Berber. Marrakech seemed like a happy medium. Matt felt so comfortable that he went for a long walk. He enjoyed himself. I was glad he felt comfortable in the surroundings.
The food was a pleasant blend of European and Mediterrean and Arabic. There are lots of olives, citrus, figs, prunes, dates. Meat is often chicken, goat but there is also camel and turtle. Couscous is very common. There is an interesting story about the bread. Karen took a cooking class. They made it from scratch. They make the dough and bring it to a bakery in their pan or board. The baker takes the loaf thru their window and stacks it with the others that are in the queue to be baked. He runs each loaf in turn thru the wood-fired oven and returns it to the original person when they return at a set time. So rather than everyone having an oven which heats up your house and requires a special appliance they work together. Rather than taking up space with that appliance they share. They can still do their favorite family recipe but not be burdened by other issues. It's just a part of how they see community.
This photo of Matt warms my heart. He is unabashedly thrilled with the idea that they bring him a lit firework to his dinner table for his birthday. I don't know when I've seen him so happy. What's not to like? The two servers who facilitated this particular celebration seemed to be enjoying the magic as well. The three of them look like African brothers. How cool is that? In the photo next to them is another side of Arabian culture - the snake charmers. These are cobras and they're loose on the pavement. This scene is in the Gema al Fna, the major market in the medina in Marrakech. The markets are all over the medina, but this one is near the edge and massive. Most of the markets are carved out of the intersection of two alleys with more or less space but generally very small. This one is more like an acre in size rather than intersection size. The medina concept is an area of town that is walled off for protection. It is also the Arab quarter.
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